Amber Jane Butchart - Guest Blogger - Looks at Home Sewing Fashions of the 30's

Amber Jane Butchart, fashion historian and author of Theatre of Fashion, posted this guest article on 1930s home sewing fashions and the paper sewing pattern. Read more of her post on Tilly and the Buttons HERE.

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Amber Jane Butchart's Fashion Miscellany

Amber Jane Butchart's Fashion Miscellany

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USDA Agricultural Extension Bulletins

Extension work began as early as 1785. It was developed as a means to reach out to rural America and assist with aspects of farm management and education for the isolated families. Early Farmers' Institutes were established for the dissemination of information on Agriculture, Manufacturing and Arts. Speakers traveled around the country doing demonstrations, conducting classes and handing out informational publications. Topics such as soil analysis, geological surveys and chemical inventions were brought to the countryside. Topics expanded to cover aspects of animal husbandry, pasturing, crops, fencing, manures and market fairs. These institutes would develop into the State Agricultural Colleges throughout the country as the Market Fairs would become the State Fairs.

http://thelaker.com/yesterday-history-of-the-agricultural-fair

In the early 1900's the Institutes would sometimes hold separate sessions titled "Cooking Schools" for women where nutrition and methods of food preparation were demonstrated. Women were encouraged to attend and the number of women lecturers grew. Sessions were arranged for children to participate in any number of features such as music and arts. As popularity of the programs grew so did the funding.

By 1908 Iowa, Indiana, Colorado and Nebraska and many other rural states, had women's organizations with trained instructors in home economics. Many of these women's "auxiliaries" offered prizes for girl's culinary exhibits at the farmers' institutes. They met and had annual dues to support the expenses of their meetings and workshops. At the same time the farming institutes began separate institutes to encourage farming in the younger generation. Boys were instructed in farm work while girls were instructed in home arts and personal hygiene.

1927 Vocational Tech Classes - Wisconsin

By 1916 the "Institutes" began to decline. The work they had carried out was now part of larger Agricultural Colleges. Home demonstration work among farm women was gaining in popularity while women were schooled in small scale poultry management and vegetable gardening, butter making and developing cooperatives for selling eggs and other products. It was the birth of wide spread home economics study. The colleges reached women by offering study clubs, demonstrations and printed Bulletins. 

Clothing Construction 1925 - Google Doc

This publication from 1925 details the process of instructing various techniques of pattern drafting and dress form construction throughout several states. It does not teach the art of clothing construction, rather it is the report detailing the success of the Extension program.

Though many of the original institutes no longer exist, their offspring are thriving. Home economics are in the curricula of most high schools in the US. Clubs such as 4-H, Boys and Girls Clubs, and Scouting offer kids the opportunity to experience agriculture, nature and the arts. University Agricultural Extension services still produce informational bulletins with information that ranges from home canning and turkey roasting safety to pond management, growing mushrooms and orchard management. All of these publications are government printings and are in the public domain. 

During the Depression, as part of the WPA, similar visiting lecturers were employed by the government to visit rural communities and teach skills. John Colt, my professor of painting at the University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee, was one of these lecturers. He traveled around Wisconsin teaching rug weaving to women in small towns and rural areas. In the 40's this was one of the ways women could earn money and by the proliferation of old weaving looms stowed in old barns it was something that many women attempted.

1945 Women's Measurements USDA Publication

This 1941 publication on Women's Measurements was a product of the WPA. The entire documentation of the process of measuring and recording measurements is detailed in this publication. The standards for women's sizing would change again but the measurement guide and chart may still be of use especially for women sewing with vintage sewing patterns. 

Download the Sewing Chart HERE

I have a collection of many of the earlier bulletins which are still valuable for the detailed information contained in them. Click on any of the Vintage Sewing Booklets linked on the left or visit http://publications.usa.gov/ for current publications.



A History of Agricultural Extension Work in the United States 1785 - 1923 by Alfred Charles True published by the United States Government Printing Office - Washington 1928©
http://wiscohisto.tumblr.com/post/44669107621/sewing-class-at-milwaukee-vocational-school 
http://thelaker.com/yesterday-history-of-the-agricultural-fair

Easy Holiday Decor

Easy To Sew Christmas Ideas

This pamphlet for Holiday Decor from Coats and Clark's features Indian Head Cotton fabric, Bondex trims, Boiltex rick rack and Coats & Clark's sewing thread. Easy applique hostess apron, square or oval tablecloth, Christmas tree skirt and stocking. Download pattern HERE. 

Easy To Sew Christmas Ideas

Simplified Sewing Series - Cornell Extension Bulletins

1961 Cornell University Extension publications for better sewing.

DOWNLOAD HERE

DOWNLOAD HERE

DOWNLOAD HERE

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Paper Runway

In 2006 I collaborated with papermaker Julie McLaughlin to produce two paper wearables to enter into the Robert C Williams Paper Museum exhibition titled Paper Runway.

The corsets were designed by Julie. They are welded rod armatures covered with pigmented paper pulp and tussah silk. The corset is designed exactly like a fabric garment. Pattern pieces are drafted and the wet sheets of paper are "cut" and fused together. They are then attached to the armature while wet and as the paper dries it shrinks to fit the armature snugly. When dry the surface is finished with a wax coating to protect and bring out the luster of the fibers.

My part in the project was designing and sewing the paper skirts.  These very thin sheets of paper were hand tinted with several light applications of pigment sprayed onto the surface. 

5 layers of these large sheets (about 60" x 80") were sandwiched together and plaited with copper metallic thread.

 I hand spun tussah silk and strips of this paper and plied it to make the cord that laced the sides of the corsets. 

This is the second dress we produced. The paper is the natural color of the fiber and is pin-tucked with gold metallic thread.

It was fun to revisit this project because I have been thinking about a bit of a delve into the manipulated surface once again but this time in fabric.

Prims Cutaway Bolero Pattern

Another wonderful Prims pattern. This one is for a Cutaway Bolero Jacket pattern using none other than the ever so versatile Cover Your Own Buttons with front or back button closing.

Prims Masquerade 4 in 1 Hat Pattern

Another fab Prims pattern for you to download. Masquerade 4 in 1 Hat. Make it Pill Box or add a brim for your summer beach accessory. A nifty hood is smart for fall.

From the Home Economics Department of the William Prym Inc sewing notions company of Dayville, CT, now part of the Pryms/Dritz corporation. Visit my other Prims posts for more patterns from the inventor of the "Cover Your Own Buttons" and buckles too!

1958 Singer Measurement Chart - Fitting for Vintage Sewing

In 1956 the Pattern Industry issued new standards for pattern sizing. In 1958 the Singer Sewing Machine Company distributed this free chart for determining your perfect pattern size.

Standard sizing has changed since then, and many believe it is time for yet another change in what is considered standard sizing. But until then, here is a wonderful guide put out by The Simplicity, McCall's and Butterick Pattern Companies ©1996 to guide your pattern purchase.