Paper Runway

In 2006 I collaborated with papermaker Julie McLaughlin to produce two paper wearables to enter into the Robert C Williams Paper Museum exhibition titled Paper Runway.

The corsets were designed by Julie. They are welded rod armatures covered with pigmented paper pulp and tussah silk. The corset is designed exactly like a fabric garment. Pattern pieces are drafted and the wet sheets of paper are "cut" and fused together. They are then attached to the armature while wet and as the paper dries it shrinks to fit the armature snugly. When dry the surface is finished with a wax coating to protect and bring out the luster of the fibers.

My part in the project was designing and sewing the paper skirts.  These very thin sheets of paper were hand tinted with several light applications of pigment sprayed onto the surface. 

5 layers of these large sheets (about 60" x 80") were sandwiched together and plaited with copper metallic thread.

 I hand spun tussah silk and strips of this paper and plied it to make the cord that laced the sides of the corsets. 

This is the second dress we produced. The paper is the natural color of the fiber and is pin-tucked with gold metallic thread.

It was fun to revisit this project because I have been thinking about a bit of a delve into the manipulated surface once again but this time in fabric.

Prims Cutaway Bolero Pattern

Another wonderful Prims pattern. This one is for a Cutaway Bolero Jacket pattern using none other than the ever so versatile Cover Your Own Buttons with front or back button closing.

Prims Masquerade 4 in 1 Hat Pattern

Another fab Prims pattern for you to download. Masquerade 4 in 1 Hat. Make it Pill Box or add a brim for your summer beach accessory. A nifty hood is smart for fall.

From the Home Economics Department of the William Prym Inc sewing notions company of Dayville, CT, now part of the Pryms/Dritz corporation. Visit my other Prims posts for more patterns from the inventor of the "Cover Your Own Buttons" and buckles too!

1958 Singer Measurement Chart - Fitting for Vintage Sewing

In 1956 the Pattern Industry issued new standards for pattern sizing. In 1958 the Singer Sewing Machine Company distributed this free chart for determining your perfect pattern size.

Standard sizing has changed since then, and many believe it is time for yet another change in what is considered standard sizing. But until then, here is a wonderful guide put out by The Simplicity, McCall's and Butterick Pattern Companies ©1996 to guide your pattern purchase.

1940's Cotton Day Dress

Rochelle from Lucky Lucille and Tasha from By Gum By Golly teamed up to host the Fall For Cotton Vintage Sew Along. I found myself with a free weekend and decided to tackle this lovely 1949 Advance dress pattern for my entry.

Advance 5185

I had been checking patterns to be sure they were complete to list in my Cynical Girl shop, and found this flared skirt dress pattern in a great size (though a little big for me), lacking instructions but still in it's original factory folds. This was the one. It was, after all, a vintage sewing challenge sew-along. I doubled up on the challenge part. An unprinted pattern with no instructions. Let the puzzle begin.

7:00 AM. My husband had just left for a writer's conference so I began, keeping the experience as vintage as possible. The fabric I chose was a piece of Cranston cotton I purchased over 30 years ago to make a copy of a vintage dress I really loved but never got to. It was perfect for this day dress. 

By 8:30 I had my pattern pinned, cut out, notched and marked.

I tried to find an 18" metal zipper in navy blue from my vintage stash but had to settle on a 22" navy or an 18" in cloister brown. I went with the blue.

Then the sewing began...... By 2:00 PM I had much of the larger pieces put together. The front facing and front of the bodice joined to make a shawl collar. That is one of my favorite types of collars so I had little difficulty figuring that part out without instructions. My 30+ year old Athena dress form isn't standing so straight any more. She is padded now with Fabulous Fit for that little extra I am carrying around now. It was a lot less expensive than purchasing a new dress form.

I decided not to serge my seams and instead use seam binding tape.

By 5:30 I had everything but the detail work to do. My pockets and buttons are pinned in place.

The buttons are vintage shell buttons upcycled from a vintage jacket that had seen better days. The buckle is shell as well. I will use white crochet cotton for the saddle stitching.

By 9:00 PM my dress was finished except for the marking and hemming.

And so I completed my Fall For Cotton Vintage Sewing Challenge. I entered it into the Flicker Fall For Cotton Group Page. So many lovely and just plain delightful entries into this challenge. I look forward to participating in another.

Prims Convertible Tote Bag Pattern

Another Prims 1960's Cover Your Own Buttons pattern. This is the Convertible Tote Bag. Download the free pattern HERE.

The William Prym Company of Dayville CT, a sewing notions manufacturer, who, together with Dritz, developed the first patent for fabric covered buttons.

Prims Whale of a Kari-All and Toy

Fun and whimsical, this whale shaped carry all can carry it all. This was a promotional pattern developed by the Home Economics Department of William Prym Sewing Notions Company of Dayville CT. Distributed in the 1960's, they encouraged the use of Prims Cover Your Own Buttons, Buttonsnaps and Buckles. Click HERE to download a free pattern.