Tests of Time - Sustainability and the Vintage Sewing Pattern

In an era when "Green" is the new consumer mantra, sustainability takes on a broader definition. What does it mean to be "Green"? Organic cotton, imported from halfway across the world, has a carbon footprint that surely negates any benefit its "Green" label boasts. Is Ethanol, a corn-based gasoline additive, a greener product than petroleum if the chemicals applied or engineered into the plant destroy the Monarch population? Do lower carbon emissions justify the vast amounts of propane used to dry the prematurely harvested corn, depleting a fuel supply that rural and remote homes depend on for heat? Is it ethical that Ethanol diverts a major human food source to fuel our vehicles? What defines something as "Green" or sustainable? 

Sustainability is not a new concept, just a forgotten one. There was a time when all you could buy or barter was local or seasonal, and when something needed mending you didn't throw it away and buy a new one... you repaired it. In our global economy, "Buy Local" seems like an antiquated notion and one that is difficult to implement. So how do we assess a thing as sustainable? There are entire institutions that dedicate their energies to this topic, but to my mind, sustainability is about something that endures.

Why does something endure? In Tests of Time by William H. Gass, he asserts that the "Test of Time" is not a test at all. Enduring is a result of the conscious effort to preserve something that is valued. That is not to say that all beautiful or wonderful things escape oblivion. It also does not imply that all that endure are worthy of their longevity. A thing may have been tucked away and forgotten. Perhaps a thing is preserved for it's sentimental value or because it is still useful. Or perhaps because it is beautiful. These attributions of value are not set by the marketplace.

As a collector and seller of vintage sewing patterns, I have witnessed time and again, a 100 year old paper sewing pattern, the most fragile and ephemeral material on the planet, used once, twice or many times, carefully folded and placed back into the envelope and saved. These patterns continue to be collected and used and saved. They have withstood the test of time through a kind of stewardship. For a thing to require nothing, be non-polluting and yet be useful for 100 years or more is the most sustainable of things.

When the consumer computer revolution began the thought was that it would lead to a paperless society and thus eliminate, or at least minimize the rampant deforestation occurring throughout the world to feed the need for paper. Computers = Green. It was a good theory but that really didn't happen judging by the sales of personal ink-jet and laser printers not to mention cartons of paper. Fortunately paper is one of the easier materials to recycle. Unfortunately, it doesn't account for the vast resources it requires to process, like water. 

The computer and the internet have made the exchange of information fast and fairly effortless. The Portable Data File, or PDF, is a file that compresses data to allow for easy travel through cyberspace. Medical records and legal documents can be sent and received quickly. They are read on tablets and computers and not necessarily printed onto paper. This is not true of the PDF sewing pattern industry. Independent designers and vintage reproduction companies, as well as the major pattern manufacturers now offer "instant download" patterns. They are instant only inasmuch as the download will appear on your desktop within minutes. The delivery imposes almost zero carbon footprint. But now the task of printing out several to sometimes hundreds of sheets of 8.5" x 11" sheets of paper (that come from trees), laying them out, taping them together and cutting them out... the "instant" factor and the sustainability quotient has dropped significantly. If they are used once, discarded and printed again...

The vintage sewing pattern, that has endured the test of time will usually be my first choice when I set my sights on a sewing project. But I also see so many wonderful designs from fabulous up and coming independent designers that I would love to try but won't because they only offer them as PDF's. A printed pattern, in a beautifully designed package is a pattern worth using once, twice or many times, keeping and treasuring. A Colette Pattern is a perfect example of a pattern that will endure. Her thoughtful attention to detail and the sturdy spiral bound instructions are attributes that will contribute to it's longevity and the legacy of Colette Patterns.

Albion by Colette

 

No doubt there are many contemporary independent designers with equally useful and beautiful = sustainable pattern designs and packaging. I encourage all sewists to choose vintage or contemporary printed patterns... real patterns. My CynicalGirl shops on Etsy, Goodsmiths, Zibbet and Bonanza carry a huge variety of vintage and contemporary patterns - all of them real, physical patterns that have endured. They remain both useful and beautiful.

Simplicity Pattern Catalog - October 1964

Simplicity Fall Pattern Catalog October 1964

The time is 50 years ago and I am only 7 but I remember my mother wearing some of these fall fashions. Just on the brink of the new Mod era, the fashions in this fall catalog emphasize necklines and capes. 50 years past and we are embracing some of these same designs once again. Shop vintage patterns for an authentic retro look. Visit my Cynical Girl shops on Etsy, Goodsmiths, Bonanza and Zibbet to find fabulous 1960's dress and accessories sewing patterns.

Find this 1960's catalog and others to download HERE.

Return to Elegance - McCall's 1954 Fashion Feature

After the austerity of 1940's War Era fashions, designers, with ready access to fabulous new materials, found delight once again in elegance. This November 1954 feature from McCall's magazine showcases creations from the top designers of the era. These names are still familiar and have endured the rigorous test of time that the fickle world of fashion imposes. A bit of eye candy for vintage enthusiasts but many of these or simimlar styles are readily available as vintage patterns allowing the seamstress to recreate with artistic license. 

McCall's 4868                Vogue 4884                        Vogue 4941                      Vogue 4513             Anne Adams 4662

A sampling of elegant selections from my CynicalGirl shop on Etsy.

Vogue 4270                  McCall's 5200                   Simplicity 4584                     Vogue 7512                   McCall's 9662

Elegant samplings from my CynicalGirl shop on Bonanza.

 

Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, Jacques Fath, lanvin-Castillo, Jacques Heim, Maggy Rouff, Madeline de Rauch and Patou. 

Less formal but every bit as elegant are these lovely dresses for day or evening cocktail attire.

Dickey Birds - Easy to Make Dickies from the Spool Cotton Company

Dickey Birds From The Spool Cotton Company 1948

Dickies were originally worn by men as a tuxedo front or false bosom. Though "Dickey" refers to either men or women's attire, the original ladies dickey was the chemisette, or a sleeveless type of blouse. The fronts were often elaborately pin-tucked or trimmed with lace and pretty buttons and bows.

Even in the 1960's and 1970's I remember having turtleneck dickies to wear under shirts or sweaters. Though they have fallen out of fashion I often think of how practical the dickey is for presenting a more formal appearance without the added layers and bulk.

In the 1940's, when supplies were scarce, the dickey would have been an easy accessory to make with small amounts of fabric. Worn under a jumper with a V or scoop neckline, the dickey could be easily removed for an evening appearance. Or switch out the turtleneck dickey for a frou-frou lace collar for another day to evening effect. Whatever way you wear them they are practical and versatile.

The educational bureau of The Spool Cotton Company (later acquired by J & P Coats) published Stitch in Time as a bi-monthly pamphlet from the 1920's through the 1950's. Each issue had helpful hints for some aspect of sewing and needlework and budget stretching ideas. This September - October, 1948 edition of Stitch in Time featured patterns for 6 dickies with neckline and trim variations. Download Stitch in Time and make some of these lovely dickies for yourself or for gifts. You don't even have to guess the size. Prints on 8.5" x 11" paper.

Kids are Back in School - Jump For Joy! 1950's Keds Shoes Advertisement

1950's Advertisement for Keds Shoes

Gifts to Make for Those Who Sew

It may seem too early to be thinking about Christmas, but lo and behold, Christmas is but 4 months away. For those of us who have always preferred to make something special to give rather than something store-bought, the time is nigh to get cracking on some of these DIY presents.

The October 1954 issue of Woman's Day Magazine featured the perfect DIY gifts to make for those who sew. And, if the growing number of sewing blogs is any indication, you may very well have quite a few on your list.

Whether your friends are seamstresses, quilters or needlework sewists, there are patterns for thoughtful gifts to make and give. You could even make one for yourself!

For those who do counted cross stitch or crewel work, this handy floss caddy keeps all the floss strands separate and free from tangling. 

Find more sewing aids to make and give this Holiday Season. Download instructions HERE.

The Mid - Century Japanese Kimono — Easy To Make Pattern from Woman's Day

From Woman's Day May 1956

Several years ago I met a woman who had served as a WAVE in occupied Japan after the bombing of Hiroshima. She was a seamstress in Evansdale, Iowa, and due to her failing vision was purging her pattern collection and she called me. During our visit she made a trip to the spare bedroom and emerged with kimonos. A few were those she purchased while stationed in Japan in the 1940's. The rest were those that she had made herself. They were all beautiful and her fascination with the culture was evident in more than the kimonos. Her entire 1960's ranch style house was furnished in the spare, Zen-like manner and her sense of peace and presence reflected that philosophy.

The fascination with Japanese culture dates back to the 1850's when Commodore Perry ordered Japan, under threat, to open its harbors to trade with the West. The cultural tsunami that ensued has influenced generations of artists, writers and designers to this day. 

So it is no surprise that in 1956 Woman's Day Magazine published this easy to sew Kimono pattern for the whole family. I have reproduced it HERE for you to download and recreate for your family.

Make It With Towels - Cannon Towels Pattern For 1950's Playsuit

The Educational Department of Cannon Mills produced booklets with sewing patterns and decorating ideas using Cannon linens such as towels and sheets from the mid 1940's to the mid 1970's. This late 1940's booklet features clothing and accessories for women as well as toys, baby items and this fabulous playsuit pattern for a stole, shorts from a 1948 Simplicity pattern and a tutorial for making a washcloth bra top. 

Download the entire booklet for slippers, apron, drawstring bag and more made with towels HERE!

Visit my CynicalGirl shops on Goodsmiths and Etsy for more vintage and newer patterns.

Maternity Tops - 1950's Style

Being pregnant in the 50's and 60's was probably not too different from being pregnant today. Perhaps the language was a bit more subtle. I remember my parents saying she was "fragrant" rather than pregnant. And the baby bump that is so frequently mentioned today was simply "showing". 
One thing that does seem to be different is the mode of dress. It's not uncommon to see a young mom-to-be with her baby bump exposed in public. Definitely something you would not have seen half a century ago.

I remember black and white photos of my mom and her sister, both pregnant at the same time, wearing skirts and sleeveless maternity tops, white socks and saddle shoes. Seems like the saddle shoes were her favorite because they appeared in a lot of those photos from the 1950's.

This maternity top is much like the one I remember from that photo. With only three pattern pieces, this pullover top is easy to sew and an expecting mom could probably whip one up in an hour. 

 

This free download prints out on 8.5 x 11 sheets of paper. Download HERE.

Find more of these easy to sew maternity patterns at my CynicalGirl shop on Goodsmiths.

1940's Peplum Skirt - An Easy To Make Pattern

Easy to make Evening Peplum Skirt

The skirt for evening wear is much overlooked in favor of dresses. Though a dress is certainly a complete presentation, the skirt and blouse with or without a jacket, is every bit as sophisticated and so much more versatile than a dress. Consider this peplum skirt from the 1947 Golden Treasury of Needlecraft. The charted pattern is easy to draft and even easier to sew. This striped taffeta is certainly a head turner, but made in a plaid taffeta or even crisp linen or luxurious velveteen would be more than worth the return in investment in envy alone. Download this skirt pattern HERE.

For more evening skirt and dress patterns visit my CynicalGirl shops on Etsy and Goodsmiths.

Easy Jersey Gloves

1950s Ladies Gloves Pattern

For the garden or that most anticipated gala event, these jersey gloves will fit the bill for comfort and class. Make a pair in scrap jersey and embellish with fancy stitching. In shortie or gauntlet styles. Pattern and instructions print on 8.5 x 11 sheets of paper. Use instructions diagrams to match printed patterns. Download HERE.

Find more gloves, hats and bags patterns at my CynicalGirl shops on Etsy and Goodsmiths.

Paper Dolls with Real Clothes

Paper Dolls with Real Fabric Clothes Woman's Day August 1954

When I was a kid I played with paper dolls. I cut out Betsy McCall, pasted her to tagboard and dressed her with the fashions of the day... all in paper. Paper dolls, to my mind, left much more scope for the imagination (to quote Anne Shirley) than three dimensional dolls. And it was so much easier to design your own "garments" in two dimensions on paper. Add the little tabs and your doll is ready to go.

This 1954 Cut Out Dolly, from Woman's Day Magazine, includes Dolly and outfits made with fabric and photographed. Using each of the outfits as a guide, make your own fabric clothes for Dolly. This would be a wonderful Mother Daughter project, and with today's technology, you could print out photos of the two of you and make wardrobes that match. Download Dolly HERE. Prints on two 8.5 x 11 sheets of paper.

Dressing in vintage fashions is easy if you sew. Find vintage sewing patterns for mom and daughter at my Cynicalgirl shop on Goodsmiths and Etsy.

Slippers - Easy To Make From Vintage Sewing Patterns

McCall's 9027 at CynicalGirl on Etsy

Slippers, scuffs, house shoes, slip-ons, mules ... no matter what you call them, we all LOVE slippers! And they are so easy to make. You can make them classy or funky or whimsical, and with so many fabulous fabric choices, your entire wardrobe can have matching slippers. Or make them to give. Everybody loves those gifts from the heart and if it can keep their pinkies warm -- all the better. Gut busy now. Only 7 months until Christmas!

McCall's M6715 at CynicalGirl on Etsy and at CynicalGirl on Goodsmiths

Matching Mommy and baby slippers are fun and easy to make.

Simplicity 2278 at CynicalGirl on Etsy or CynicalGirl on Goodsmiths

Find this 1950's Ballet Slippers pattern HERE on the Free Pattern Friday post on the Vintage Pattern Marketplace Blog to download for FREE!

Vintage Pattern Marketplace: Easy To Make Gingham Ballet Slippers  Easy To Make Gingham Ballet Slippers The pattern for these easy to sew slippers came from my grandmothers 1947 copy of Golden Treasury of Needlecraft ..... more

1940's Toddler's Sun Suit Patterns

8 June 1945 Younkers Ad in The Des Moines Register

 ...Fashioned for the minimum coverage and the maximum in good looks! This 1945 Younkers ad from the Des Moines Register for Summertime Togs depicts the small fry in suspender shorts and sun suits. The sun suit, in all of it's variations, is still as popular today as they were in their heyday.

Mail Order 2520 Sun Suit Pattern

The sweetness of the cherub-like face may have something to do with the popularity of this pattern. I can't tell you how many requests I have had for it. This is a Mail Order pattern from 1949. I found the advertisement for it on Newspapers.com from the 6 June 1949 issue of The Times Record from Troy, New York. 

The Times Record - Troy NY 6 June 1949

This 1948 Advance pattern adds a little kimono sleeve bolero for an easy to sew cover-up.
 

Advance 4927 from CynicalGirl on Etsy

With the popularity of sewing vintage fashions for both kids and grown-ups, it's no surprise that the Big 4 pattern companies have been reissuing some of the more popular patterns from the 40's and 50's. Simplicity released a ruffled pantie sun suit pattern similar to our Mail Order gem in 2013. With or without the ruffled pantie, Simplicity 1600 (a recreation of Simplicity 1944 from 1947©) is a good imitation of our 2520 with the bonus that this sweet sun suit converts to a bikini top and panties and includes a sun bonnet. 

Simplicity 1600 at CynicalGirl on Goodsmiths

Ms. Belle's Boutique made the original Mail Order 2520 with the most beautiful embroidery trim. You can visit her blog HERE to see the finished results. No doubt you will want to make this sweet little sun suit for your sweet little one. 

Find Simplicity 1600 at my CynicalGirl shop on Goodsmiths and my CynicalGirl shop on Etsy

A. Neely Hall Craft Patterns

A. Neely Hall Craft Pattens No. 115 1941 Mail Order Woodworking Pattern

1941 and the world is at war ..... again. It seems no matter where you look, all hands are on deck. The war effort at home reached deep into the day in and the day out of every person in America and abroad. Everything was being rationed from sugar to tires to silk stockings. A. Neely Hall Craft Patterns, a company offering mostly woodworking patterns that were available as mail order patterns (just like sewing patterns), contributed to the war effort with their do-it-yourself patterns to make everything from pencil holders to boats and cabins using wood and not precious metal.

This very rare pattern for spool holders in the guise of Military Men was published in 1941. You could use a scroll saw or coping saw to cut these pieces out - or an Exacto knife to reproduce in chip board. Either way you choose to replicate this quintessential World War II era memorabilia, the result will be both useful and nostalgic. Download this pattern HERE to print out on 8.5" x 11" sheets of paper.

Make them for gifts for those very special retro sewists on your gift list.

The Potholder

Cast iron pans are my favorite to fry or saute with. My pans have been handed down from from my grandmother to my mother and to me. Plain black or enameled. They conduct heat evenly and maintain the heat at a lower flame. No scorching if you are attentive. The downside of these sturdy vessels is that their handles are usually of the same material as the balance and thus get hot. 

Enter the lowly potholder. Two pieces of fabric with a couple of layers of flannel sandwiched between and tacked or quilted to place between your hands and the hot handles. Of course, as a child the potholder loom with cotton loopers was all the rage. But In my thrifting searches I have occasionally happened upon fanciful shapes that were from an earlier era. Some were crocheted with multi-colored pearl cotton, others were fabric.

McCall 1940 Potholder Pattern

This 1940 McCall pattern with instructions to make these fun potholders for fish and chairs and granny's panties must have been popular. My copy was well used and in the envelope were multiple tracings on brown paper, newspaper and tissues from other patterns. Few of the original tissues have survived but I have included the Strawberry and the Fish patterns for a free instant download for you to make for gifts or to brighten up your own kitchen. Download HERE. 

Find more apron and accessory patterns at my CynicalGirl shop on Etsy.

Andy Warhol - The Pre-Fame Years

Magazine Ad 1950's Andy Warhol Sketch

I was an art student in the late 70's and early 80's. In the galleries, Abstract Expressionism, Op and Pop gave way to Neo Geo and Neo Expressionism. But in the text books Pop still reigned supreme and on that much esteemed throne sat Andy Warhol. We all know him because of his unmistakable imagery. The giant screen prints of Marilyn Monroe, Mao and Campbell's Tomato Soup. But like many artists, Warhol's start was slow and a bit more practical. 

While checking patterns I came across this advert tucked into one of the patterns. What a delight to see Andy Warhol's name as the illustrator of those sweet little collars and belt. He had quite a good career illustrating for magazines such as Harpers. 

The Andy Warhol Museum

For more visit 99Designs

Stuffed Animals - Every Child's Delight

McCall 419

I slept on the upper bunk in an upstairs bedroom I shared with with three of my sisters. Two sets of bunk beds in this dormer like bedroom, where the ceiling angled in at the sides, in a 1920's bungalow on Milwaukee's near north side. If you let the covers hang over the sides you could imagine you were in a covered wagon. Ahh. My vivid childhood imagination kept me engaged for hours on end. That was the early 1960's. 

Simplicity 2249

My upper bunk was home to 20 or more stuffed animals, my favorite being the large lion and Zip, the monkey. I have always had a tremendous love for all creatures and of course these inanimate plushies occupied the prime spots and overtook more than just leg room, so much so that it was not uncommon for me to fall out of bed when I turned in my sleep. I don't have any of those dear stuffed pals anymore but my memories of them are still fond. Today my bed plays host to many creatures but these are living and breathing pals.

Simplicity 4915

I still harbor great affection for cuddly toys and though I sell many patterns in my Etsy and Goodsmiths shops, these stuffed animal patterns will remain in my personal collection. The designs of the past have such dignity about them, not the cartoon type stuffed toys that dominate today's market.

McCall's 1810

What a wonderful Easter present to receive a new stuffed toy. These are so many patterns to make something really special for your little sweetheart.

Simplicity 3701

This crocheted puppy would delight any child. Download the pattern to make this sweet stuffed toy.

Or if you are in a particularly nostalgic mood, you could make an iconic sock monkey toy. I have made dozens of these familiar faces for nieces and nephews over the last 30 years. These two are not quite ready for prime time but will be ready for my newest grand niece or nephew in May. Make your own with these instructions.

Sock Monkeys - Red Heel Socks - Fox River Mills