The Embellished 1920's One Hour Dress

The 1920's silhouette is cut rather straight and plain. The dresses distinguished themselves through the embellishments that were added. Often a simple slip dress was worn under an overdress of English netting which had been beaded, appliqued and embroidered. There is no limit to the extravagances that could be sewn to such a simple base. 

These three embellished net overdresses are a few exquisite examples of the endless variety that this fabric allows. 

In April, the Wolf Creek Players will stage three one-act plays by Alice Gerstenberg that take place in the 1920's. For these plays I have purchased netting and will enjoy embellishing the overdresses to match the personality of each character. The basic overdress may be taken from this 1920's booklet, The One Hour Dress. Since the handwork will be significant, it would be a relief to work with a simple form that takes so little time to construct. 

Download the booklet HERE.

Embellishing for a Couture Finish

Threads Magazine June 2015 Back Cover

The latest issue of Threads™ Magazine features a 1940's evening gown on the back cover. The design of the gown is typical of the era. What sets this particular dress apart from the rest is the added embellished trim to the collar, sleeve holes and hem. This little attention to detail made me recall an earlier post about an otherwise ordinary dress from my collection that distinguishes itself through tucks and folds. (See The Smocked Dress here.)

This lovely gown sent me off to my closet to revisit a few other garments I treasure for their distinguished embellishments. This jacket, however ordinary in style and shape features a detail at the collar, pocket and cuffs that elevate it to a higher, more sophisticated level.

The faded stitching underneath reveals the mechanism for this unique flourish. Perhaps strips of bias cut fabric are rolled and stitched to secure, then looped, overlapping to form the lapped loop trim that is both restrained and elegant recalling the looped epaulettes of a high ranking officer. It also appears to have been attached manually and not sewn into the seam.

This lovely sheer bed jacket from the 1950's boasts a ruffled collar and band trim of pleated and embroidered chiffon.

This effect would not be difficult to achieve either with a ruffler attachment or folded and stitched by hand. But what a pretty frame for your face with that little bit of ruffle standing at the nape of your neck.

This 1950's peignoir and negligee ensemble of sheer chiffon adds a simple ruffle trim to the yoke, collar and cuffs.

That same ruffle treatment is repeated on the bodice and shoulder straps. Nothing screams wedding cake frou frou more than this sweet raised embellishment. 

These treatments do not require any extraordinary skills though they do demand a bit of patience and precision. The final presentation, however, will be worth every moment spent as you proudly wear your everyday garment that has been elevated to Couture with your embellishing technique.

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Thomas Wilson & Co Lace

 Lace Frosted Balloon Sleeves

Download Here

This 1950's insert for packaged lace from Thomas Wilson & CO., Inc. Wilson Maid Laces, includes instructions to "Make a sleeveless jumper or dress seem new and different. Add 1.5" Nylon Val Galloon on standard balloon sleeve pattern. Elasticize both ends."

Trio of Neckline Changes

Download Here

Use detachable collar. Ruffled yoke effect achieved with Nylon Alencon Edge, 2.25" width. Scarf that ties-on for jabot effect is edged with 5/8" Nylon Val lace. For ingenue look, add row after row of 5/8" gathered Nylon Val Lace to collar.

Thomas Wilson Lace & Co., Inc. New York, NY, was producing fine lace as early as 1902 and perhaps earlier. Known for it's lingerie lace, Warner Brothers Company was one of it's important clients. After a dispute over infringement of it's 1964 copyright on a pansy lace design first embodied in an elastic "spandex" and later a rigid nylon fiber, and a labor dispute in 1971, the company dissolved in 1986.